Roksanda Ilincic’s prefall presentation was a masterclass in the much-loved hallmarks of her eponymous label. In her own words, the offerings were, “A celebration of all the things that are signatures for me.”
Inspired by painter Jackson Pollock, sculptor Richard Serra and the collages of Laurie King, Ilincic’s own classic artistry of color, form and fabrication did not disappoint. A gentle palette of lavender, deep blush and mustard yellow was set against splices of eye-watering neon orange, color-blocked into collage-like panels. In spectacular tromp l’oeil detail, a splattered print is, up close, created in melted plastic, while a weave resembles a picture print.
For her first experimentations with leather, Ilincic offered delicately pleated creations with shocks of contrasting silk lining that flicked flirtatiously with movement. Silk organza dresses and jackets were finished with frayed fringing while superlight jacquard floated in exquisitely engineered maximalist forms. It may read like classic Roksanda, but really, it’s like you’ve never seen her before.